tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25080598182444494342024-03-13T14:02:45.989-07:00Purikami seru kunapiKaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05164416716810207983noreply@blogger.comBlogger54125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2508059818244449434.post-41716387189714770062013-10-26T10:52:00.000-07:002013-10-26T10:52:54.280-07:00<iframe id="contentframe" src="http://www.fao.org/assets/infographics/FAO-Infographic-food-ag-en.pdf" style="width:814px; height:800px;" frameborder="0"></iframe>
This is a great info-graphic from the Food and Agricultural Organization of the United Nations. You´re welcome. It´s a bit weird how it cut things off, so definitely check it out on the FAO webpage if you are interested. Kaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05164416716810207983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2508059818244449434.post-75676096013931191232013-09-24T06:00:00.001-07:002013-09-24T06:00:11.413-07:00From my un-exotic desk in Atlanta...Lately I´ve been playing with the idea of re-entering the world of public journaling. Though I´m no longer walking through the mountains (the title of this blog), I feel like I am still on the same journey that I began in Peru. My three years in Musho raised a lot of questions for me about how the world works, how the world should works, why malnutrition is so insidious if it´s relatively simple to prevent...<br />
So I applied to graduate school. After a few nail-biting months, I was accepted. Now in my second month, I´ve learned more questions than answers. It is thrilling and terrifying to realize how many questions you can ask to which NO ONE knows the answer. Or, answers that seem obvious yet that are completely ignored in the general public. Why? Why doesn´t everyone eat a healthy diet, not smoke, exercise 150 minutes a week, use condoms, and get enough sleep? Maybe we are not asking or answering all the questions there either.<br />
My solution-- only to my own surplus of questions and wondering-- is to write. This is a non-official, not-scientific, not-school related way of sharing my learning process with the 2 people who might ever stumble upon it.<br />
Oh, and eventually I will go back to Peru and get some cute kid pictures again.Kaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05164416716810207983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2508059818244449434.post-51722557239493817282012-10-31T10:50:00.004-07:002012-10-31T10:50:42.830-07:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ac-nzSsBX4g/UJFkzBgzVwI/AAAAAAAAAYY/qi6VmeHXm3M/s1600/SAM_0302.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ac-nzSsBX4g/UJFkzBgzVwI/AAAAAAAAAYY/qi6VmeHXm3M/s320/SAM_0302.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
After the fact, this list of pros and cons of my third year is pretty hilarious.<br />Kaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05164416716810207983noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2508059818244449434.post-26387492671806497922012-10-07T11:51:00.001-07:002012-10-07T11:51:17.897-07:00Being a fly on the wall<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Gxy7F2ed9lE/UHHPDsj2zSI/AAAAAAAAAYE/y7f_NIDvK7I/s1600/SAM_2531.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Gxy7F2ed9lE/UHHPDsj2zSI/AAAAAAAAAYE/y7f_NIDvK7I/s320/SAM_2531.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Throughout my early
childhood development project this year, and, in fact, in all my projects, I´ve
faced a puzzle. How do you actually measure a behavior, like handwashing,
protein consumption or time spent playing with a baby. Self-reporting has been
proved biased and squidgy by countless studies, especially in the imprecise
area of diet. In all my projects, I´ve looked for the magic question, some way
to approximate what I really want to know.
For example, to measure hand-washing, I asked about the important times
to wash hands, for the person to demonstrate hand-washing, and then check if
there is a towel and soap next to their sink. While it´s far from perfect, it
gives me a decent idea of whether the household is likely to wash their hands.
Then there is the product indicator: does anyone have diarrhea in their house
at the moment? The later measures almost too much, of course. <o:p></o:p></div>
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With nutrition and
early childhood stimulation, I´ve fumbled for an adequate measure and still,
after over a year of work, am not satisfied. For nutrition, I try to plan house
visits for a time when the mother will be cooking to at least see that the
beans or salad or meat exists. Even so, I have no way of knowing how frequent
this happens (once a week, once a month, daily?), the typical portion size for
the child, or how many times a day the child actually eats. Frequent visits
give me a sense of these questions, true, but they are difficult to nail down.
For early stimulation, I ask where and with what the child plays (the answers
to these questions are comedic and often bizarre. To “what does your child
usually play with?” “Chickens” is a common answer. “The dog” and “with whatever
he can find” being close seconds). It´s not good enough, by far, and I´ve
considered far more complex surveys, but discarded them in favor of simpler
questions that can be replicated by my health promoters. <o:p></o:p></div>
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After all this
pondering, I stumbled upon the answer this week. For background, I´m in the
midst of a final phase of my Early Stimulation project, which entails creating
Play Corners in all the homes with the mothers. For the past 5 months, I´ve
held weekly or bi-weekly meetings with mothers to make toys, and now, in each
home, we are paint murals as a final stimulant for the children. Originally, my
plan was to use stencils and have the mothers paint on their own. However, I
love drawing and painting, and the number of moms is less than I´d planned for,
so I decided to draw and paint with the families. It means spending hours in
someone´s home, while daily life hums along around you. Thus, it is a far
better observation and investigation than any short survey could hope for.
Instead of asking how often a child eats, I see how often they eat over the
course of a day. Instead of asking where a child spends most of his time, I see
that he is usually sitting on the floor, laying on the bed, or running around
in the road like a crazy man (the last subject, a wayward 2 year-old, is no
surprise. His mother can often be found dragging him out of neighbor´s houses,
the corner store, or the health post, where he wanders alone). <o:p></o:p></div>
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The problem is, though
my curiousity is satisfied, I´m not sure how to use this information in any
evaluation of my project. Since I didn´t do a baseline study in the same way, I
have no comparison. Still, I wouldn´t give up the opportunity, and what better
way to spend my last months than painting, surrounding by the moms and children
that I love? <o:p></o:p></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Kaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05164416716810207983noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2508059818244449434.post-18924690892433400792012-09-22T17:16:00.001-07:002012-09-22T17:16:43.825-07:00Seeing another side of the sierra
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In Mancos, I am not, despite vicious gossip to the contrary, living in
sin with a man. No sir, I live alone, in a room a bit smaller than my Musho one
and infinitely more comfortable. As I might have written, my decision to move
was based on drama and family problems in Musho and an impulse caused by a
devious temptation a sign claiming <i>Se
Aquila Cuarto con Baño Privado </i>(Room rented with private bathroom).<o:p></o:p><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CcSzeCb5sKY/UF5TcAvB9AI/AAAAAAAAAXg/mm9j8_7OiQM/s1600/SAM_2503.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CcSzeCb5sKY/UF5TcAvB9AI/AAAAAAAAAXg/mm9j8_7OiQM/s320/SAM_2503.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Now, 4 months later, I am delighted with my sanctuary, as I think of it.
However, it did come with an add-on that I didn´t realize at first—a family. It
isn´t a host family but rather a group of fascinating, friendly and kind people
living their own lives and occasionally crossing paths with me. The more I know
them, these landlords and fellow Mancosinos, the more I want to know them.
Spending “family time” with this family has shown me a side of the sierra that
I didn´t know—a well educated, well-informed, sophisticated group of people,
despite cooking on a wood burning stove and loving guinea pig and beer as much
as any self-respecting Mushino.<o:p></o:p><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0La6FkkpozI/UF5T8QH62fI/AAAAAAAAAXw/lt1Yl9AqdKY/s1600/SAM_2460.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0La6FkkpozI/UF5T8QH62fI/AAAAAAAAAXw/lt1Yl9AqdKY/s320/SAM_2460.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Nancy, the cook, head of business, and general of the entire operation,
is a Quechua-speaking, village-born woman—and mother of six professionals
(though one is a soon-to-be-graduate). She churns out lunch for 50 daily (your
standard tasty Peruvian menu) yet always finds a moment to joke with me in
Quechua even in the midst of the rush. Sometimes she astounds me. A couple of
days ago, Kelly and I ran into her and I said, in my broken Quechua: <i>Kelly shamun peliculata rikanapaq (</i>Kelly
comes to see a movie). Nancy responded something like “<i>Calapicapaq</i>?” Confused, I asked her to translated, and she
translated to “naked man movie?” I´m unsure and worried where she got this idea
of Kelly and I. <o:p></o:p></div>
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While I have no intention of replacing my <i>compadres</i> in Musho with a new family, it is wonderful to discover
new friends and ideas. It brings balance to my chaotic life here. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/----B40SiUNc/UF5TOxHYvRI/AAAAAAAAAXU/yDLCMHUY9r8/s1600/SAM_2519.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/----B40SiUNc/UF5TOxHYvRI/AAAAAAAAAXU/yDLCMHUY9r8/s320/SAM_2519.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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In pictures we have: Sandra Guadalupe, one of my favorite early stimulation babies, Olga and Tatiana, probably the worst (translate, most delayed, most malnoursished) baby, two of my terrible English students (Lloshi, the boy, is about to start dropping all the crayons down the crack in the desk as Betsy tries to color), and an unwilling participant in a recent meeting of mine. </div>
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PS: Strike news? The teacher strike goes on, but it seems that no one in
Musho is involved, thank goodness. On the other hand, there is a potential
mining strike nearby that could get violent… things are never dull. <o:p></o:p></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Kaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05164416716810207983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2508059818244449434.post-13118704403220064132012-08-24T04:03:00.001-07:002012-08-24T04:03:44.391-07:00This is reality but I don´t like it. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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** I suspect this blog, long overdue, is not up to any standard of
writing. I wrote it as a rant, to clear my own head, and to puzzle over the
question of how much inequality we can just live with.** <o:p></o:p></div>
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In my unusually roomy <i>colectivo </i>today,
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walk away) and Apa Chico (a village 40 minutes walking from Musho and the same
from Mancos). The Apa Chico and Piscuy teachers work in 1-room schools, with 4
grades in the same room. In a small space, eavesdropping is impossible to
avoid, and I listened with curiosity to their plans to participate in the
upcoming teachers´ strike. The strike, beginning on September 5, is indefinite,
and will leave their schools completely closed. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<!--StartFragment--><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "MS 明朝"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast;">The opportunity to uncover their motives was too
much to resist and I joined, eventually coming to expound the radical idea that
teachers could be paid by quality of work (such as not closing their school for
indefinite amounts of time), test results (controversial, but I´m not sure what
else would be a measure) and other measures, instead of a flat salary.
Amazingly, the teacher I spoke with bristled at this idea and began a rant
about the inability to compare academic achievement in a school in Musho as a
school in Lima. Of course, poverty, malnutrition, lack of reading materials,
stimulation, study time, parent commitment and a host of other determinants
keep Musho children far below the level of their Lima counterparts. </span><!--EndFragment--><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0Uuejurksr8/UDazTIaGCfI/AAAAAAAAAWw/GgP2VIQJJ48/s1600/SAM_2357.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0Uuejurksr8/UDazTIaGCfI/AAAAAAAAAWw/GgP2VIQJJ48/s320/SAM_2357.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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The teacher went on to describe the difficulty of teaching children in a
1-room school to the level of children with a teacher per-grade level. I
agreed, and suggested that the one-room schools be closed, and that those
students study in Musho or Mancos. This, perhaps, was too near to suggesting</div>
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<o:p></o:p>she be fired (not the point of course), and she spent the last few minutes in the car being particularly angry at me.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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My actual point was this: does a Ministry of Education not have a responsibility to even the playing field as much as possible. Students with 1 teacher for 4 grades will not have as much grade level-specific attention as a student with a teacher specifically for his level. It´s a fact. If a 10 minute walk is the difference between those two options, why would a parent chose the inferior option? Most of the parents that do are un-educated themselves and see no better life for their children. Should the Ministry of Education not close the inferior school and focus on getting children to the better one?</div>
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Of course, the Musho school, to my un-trained eye, hardly shows strong
outcomes. The teacher argued in the car, and I agree with her, that students
from Musho would never match test results of students from Lima. This may be
true. However, it reveals a systematic inequality. To enter into higher
education of any kind—police academy, technical school, university—applicants
must take an exam. The results are rated nationally and only the top scores
enter. The inequality is life-long. While a Musho may achieve prosperity and
success in business or agriculture—and there are some professionals as well—the
general trend is to keep the poor in poverty. </div>
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I choose to believe that the solution lies in early interventions.
Parenting classes, preschool and pre-preschool programs and aggressive early
childhood health interventions have shown developmental advances worldwide, in
low-income populations. Government involvement in parenting smells suspiciously
of Big Brother, yet the alternative, leaving the generation to muddle along in
poverty, except for a few lucky ones, scares me more. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<!--EndFragment--></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Kaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05164416716810207983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2508059818244449434.post-88467451513583352372012-07-04T16:40:00.004-07:002012-07-04T16:40:58.231-07:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZZ2reJ0uAVA/T_TR9WerWUI/AAAAAAAAAVQ/dYHo6iJia_g/s1600/SAM_2290.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZZ2reJ0uAVA/T_TR9WerWUI/AAAAAAAAAVQ/dYHo6iJia_g/s320/SAM_2290.JPG" width="180" /></a>This was a hilarious afternoon walking after my English class-- who knew sunglasses could be so much fun? </div>
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A<br />Kaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05164416716810207983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2508059818244449434.post-7213996458659141072012-07-03T05:45:00.000-07:002012-07-03T05:45:13.690-07:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="background-color: white;">One of my chronic
frustrations in my work this year has been trying to account for the mysterious
factor of “culture.” What is it? I don´t even really try that one (though I
probably could muddle through something after several semesters of
anthropology). All I´m asking is how it affects mothers and their children.
Something about the intersection between culture and poverty creates a breeding
ground for under-nourished, developmentally delayed, parasite-ridden children.
That description might be slightly melodramatic but is in no way false. As I
try to convince people—mostly mothers—to change their behavior, I meet baffling
and frustrating levels of resistance. Even after almost three years, I only
guess at why.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;">Last week, however, I
received a clue. After some coordination, I started working in the Mancos health
center in early childhood stimulation. The health center is slightly bigger,
but mostly filled with unmotivated tenured staff. Mancos itself is more
important than Musho, a district capital, on the highway, and the taxi stop for
all the small towns up the valley. In itself it is not big or important—1200
people, 3-4 restaurants (I´m unsure whether to count a bar that sells juice), a
handful of shops and a slightly better high school.</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ysWzJev7aj0/T_LlEORk1jI/AAAAAAAAAU8/t-0NYcB2GQg/s1600/SAM_2055.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="291" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ysWzJev7aj0/T_LlEORk1jI/AAAAAAAAAU8/t-0NYcB2GQg/s320/SAM_2055.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: white;">Last week, however, I
received a clue. After some coordination, I started working in the Mancos health
center in early childhood stimulation. The health center is slightly bigger,
but mostly filled with unmotivated tenured staff. Mancos itself is more
important than Musho, a district capital, on the highway, and the taxi stop for
all the small towns up the valley. In itself it is not big or important—1200
people, 3-4 restaurants (I´m unsure whether to count a bar that sells juice), a
handful of shops and a slightly better high school.</span><br />
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In Musho,
I feel comfortable with my moms, know how to make them laugh or convince
them to show up vaguely on time, but haven´t yet figured out how to change that
attitude. My worry is that without some spark of brilliance, I won´t before I leave. However, the
difference lies somewhere in figuring out the difference between Mancos and
Musho—exposure to nicer homes and smarter kids? As a motivator, I show pictures
and videos of my nephew JD commenting on his good eating habits and brilliance
whenever possible. Maybe I´ll do the same with the Mancosino babies. <o:p></o:p></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Kaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05164416716810207983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2508059818244449434.post-48058672393212341742012-07-01T10:13:00.000-07:002012-07-01T10:13:56.542-07:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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It´s been a while. In the past two months, I´ve changed houses, had several mini nervous breakdowns, started working with a new group of moms (in addition to the Musho wonderwomen), taught my English kids a range of crafts, dance moves and games (and a smattering of grammar and vocabulary) and began the second phase of my child development project in Musho. Things have been busy. Here are a few photos of what I´ve been doing with more detail to come.<br />Kaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05164416716810207983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2508059818244449434.post-23994953913335264222012-04-07T15:20:00.000-07:002012-04-07T17:12:44.153-07:00Vagando por acá<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wf1Z8h6FGfc/T4DIJTX2ibI/AAAAAAAAATw/inxOuH3T_MQ/s1600/SAM_1236.JPG"><br /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WFkYyE26QKk/T4DIJAS5m_I/AAAAAAAAATk/zvaGyHDftz4/s1600/SAM_1307.JPG"><br /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2Q-_8EpIbsg/T4DIIs5RJZI/AAAAAAAAATc/k1s0jn_Bgpg/s1600/SAM_1330.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2Q-_8EpIbsg/T4DIIs5RJZI/AAAAAAAAATc/k1s0jn_Bgpg/s400/SAM_1330.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5728798777831138706" border="0" /></a><br /><br /> <style>@font-face { font-family: "MS 明朝"; }@font-face { font-family: "Cambria Math"; }p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal { margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt; font-size: 12pt; font-family: "Times New Roman"; }.MsoChpDefault { font-size: 10pt; }div.WordSection1 { page: WordSection1; }</style> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">Words, language, even grammar, to a point, shape meaning and quality of speech more than we know, or notice. I recently offered my love hate intrigue with Quechua as a case in point, and surely more accomplished linguists could bring out many more (gendered objects, just off the top of my head).<span style=""> </span>This difference slightly justifies the terrible habit many volunteers fall into, that of speaking Spanglish. In any given sentence, nouns, verbs and adjectives may be borrowed from Spanish, warped into some bastardized form (quedar-ed, invitar-ed, shami-ed). My first encounters with this habit were in training, and found them pretentious and infuriating. Two and a half years later, I find it nearly impossible to translate some terms, and others slip out in Spanish without me even noticing. </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">Not to hate on my native tongue, but some things do sound better in Spanish. </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">One such word is “vagar” or, as we say it here, “bagar.” It means to laze about and I believe it shares a root with vagabond. In a sentence: “Qué haces?” “Vagando por acá, no más.” It´s definitely derogatory— like, I make fun of my friend who is a taxi driver by saying he is just “vagando” (Lazing about) at the taxi station all day. </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">Without knowing the term, I have been champion vaga for most of my life. Give me a novel and sofa in a quiet space and I can be content for hours. Here, of course, things are different. For starters, there are no couches in Musho and even novels are in short supply (though I can get my fix every couple weeks in Huaraz). More to the point, though (because in pinch, I can reread a book and make myself comfortable against a tree, rock, abandoned house or gravestone</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-X4ktr92dj1o/T4DIIfk7sKI/AAAAAAAAATQ/Q-0JyPZiukY/s1600/SAM_1305.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-X4ktr92dj1o/T4DIIfk7sKI/AAAAAAAAATQ/Q-0JyPZiukY/s400/SAM_1305.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5728798774256185506" border="0" /></a><span style=""> (depending on which of my favorite spots I´m in), is the attitude here to leisure time. It hardly exists. “Hobbies” are rare, especially for women. Men might play soccer and women might knit—also in one neighborhood the women play volleyball sometimes—but in general, if someone isn´t working, there isn´t a lot to do. </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">My host mom, if she isn´t working in the fields, cooking, eating, or washing clothes, sits. She doesn´t even really like watching TV. I will say two things and hope not to sound judgmental—it´s not my intention. First, that Editha works so hard that she probably desperately needs rest in her off moments, not more stimulation. Also, this makes for much more of a sense of family in community. You see, in the evening, if Editha isn´t desperately working still, the only thing she´ll do is talk to me, her parents, or, if she wants to make the 20-minute walk, her in-laws. This dependence on others is completely contrary to my own attitude: “What, we´ve just been sitting at the dinner table for an hour and a half!?! You mean, you want to keep talking to me??? No, it´s reading my book time”</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-inm1WYsA_7k/T4DIHy2fS8I/AAAAAAAAATE/wXWvElUNOP4/s1600/SAM_1289.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-inm1WYsA_7k/T4DIHy2fS8I/AAAAAAAAATE/wXWvElUNOP4/s400/SAM_1289.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5728798762250226626" border="0" /></a></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">This is what people find incomprehensible about me: that I would rather sit, reading a book, alone, than be with other people. All day long (mostly in the afternoons), neighbors and friends will call out to me: “Takushun!!” (We should sit).<span style=""> </span>I rarely accept. If I´m not actually heading to do visits or a meeting or other work-related activity, I would rather sit, solita (alone), reading a book, or walk, solita, exploring these gorgeous mountains. So what<span style=""> </span>am I saying? That my style of vagando reflects some deep need for solitude? Rather, that it might reflect something about our different cultures, individual versus collective.<br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wf1Z8h6FGfc/T4DIJTX2ibI/AAAAAAAAATw/inxOuH3T_MQ/s1600/SAM_1236.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wf1Z8h6FGfc/T4DIJTX2ibI/AAAAAAAAATw/inxOuH3T_MQ/s400/SAM_1236.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5728798788159965618" border="0" /></a></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">As I spend more and more time alone here—not intentionally, but by being left in the house—I am appreciating more and more other people. Slowly, I´m learning. On Sunday, I sat in a drizzle with a Quechua grandma and her dog for half an hour, trying to understand a few stories about the dangers of local snakes (the superstition is that if one enters in your house, someone is going to move or die, blech). Yesterday evening I sat in the plaza for an hour with a friend, watching everyone getting ready for Wednesday´s market. Perhaps one of the things I need to learn before leaving Peru is to develop my cross-cultural vagando skills.<br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WFkYyE26QKk/T4DIJAS5m_I/AAAAAAAAATk/zvaGyHDftz4/s1600/SAM_1307.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WFkYyE26QKk/T4DIJAS5m_I/AAAAAAAAATk/zvaGyHDftz4/s400/SAM_1307.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5728798783038921714" border="0" /></a></p>Kaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05164416716810207983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2508059818244449434.post-71499507531451495262012-03-17T05:33:00.000-07:002012-03-17T06:11:14.218-07:00Why I Stay<style>@font-face { font-family: "MS 明朝"; }@font-face { font-family: "Cambria Math"; }p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal { margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt; font-size: 12pt; font-family: "Times New Roman"; }.MsoChpDefault { font-size: 10pt; }div.WordSection1 { page: WordSection1; }</style> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">Staying a third year in a small Quechua town without many amenities may have seemed like a wild decision, a flight fancy, a desperate escape from the real world. During my weaker moments, I say the same. Over the past two and half years, I have had moments of painful frustration, agonizing self doubt and absurd awkwardness, yet these only highlight the true fulfillment and joy I´ve found throughout my Peace Corps service in Musho. </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">Sometimes, when groups of volunteers get together, there is a bad habit of getting into out doing one another´s complaints: Well, I don´t have hot water; well I don´t have any water; I don´t have cell service… etc. It´s an easy trap to fall into, as if we feel that by enduring hardships we prove ourselves as volunteers, as adventurers. However, endurance has always been a prerequisite for Peace Corps. As a friend of mine said, most of us applied imagining living in a straw hut in Africa, to find ourselves with cellphones and cement walls, our biggest lack close grocery stores and intellectual stimulation. </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">I stay in Musho not through some wish for self-flagellation or need to prove myself. If I prove anything over these two years, it will have little to do with my fortitude as an adventurer and more to do with an acquired patience and ability to bite my tongue. My reasons are two sided: one is idealistic and perhaps a bit foolish. The project I am working on this year, a Center for Early Childhood Development is unique in our region. The infrastructure is challenge enough, but I feel that my work and relationship with mothers here gives me an opening to actually encourage them to use this future center. In my hopeful moments, I know I am staying because there is a need in my community and I hope that my first two years gave me the abilities necessary to fill it. My second reason is far more selfish—I like it here. I like paying $1.50 for a three course meal, being given random gifts of produce by my neighbors, agonizing over Quechua verbs (and seeing Editha´s face light up when I finally produce an intelligible narrative), watching the subtle changes of seasons, knowing that I am important to people here and that by my presence I may make some change. </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">This week, several volunteers in our department were given the choice to leave Peace Corps, stay in their sites or change sites, based on the danger of transportation in their area. All of them would kill me in a game of “Who´s site is harder?”—Their sites are isolated, underserved by health and education personal, mostly Quechua speaking and often without Internet or cellphone service. However, when of think of them leaving, I think of my reasons for staying and hope that they consider the same reasons. By virtue of their sites being harder, I know that they have an amazing ability to introduce change, as slow and painful, as the process may seem. In the heat of the moment, a trip home might seem appealing, but you can never come back in the same way.<br />Earlier this week, in the midst of painful illness, I went through my wallet and found a free waffle coupon that expires in September. It was a call to homesickness—to 24-hour restaurants and fountain sodas, to big breakfasts and free refills on brewed coffee. Still, though, Waffle House will still be there in December, even if I do have to shell out $1.99 for a waffle. Opportunities and openings here are ephemeral and don´t come often. I wish I had a way to make those volunteers realize that. </span></p>Kaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05164416716810207983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2508059818244449434.post-83749018170151596262012-03-12T11:36:00.002-07:002012-03-12T13:33:20.654-07:00Quechuata allí kosa yachakullaykaa!!<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zd1BcTpNwYg/T15dOaz2pKI/AAAAAAAAAS4/9VoQS2uPTF4/s1600/SAM_1085.JPG"><br /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7qnvY1sTMTE/T15dMhZVPsI/AAAAAAAAASg/8WnElWyS9A0/s1600/SAM_1214.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7qnvY1sTMTE/T15dMhZVPsI/AAAAAAAAASg/8WnElWyS9A0/s400/SAM_1214.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5719111046511541954" border="0" /></a><br /> <style>@font-face { font-family: "MS 明朝"; }@font-face { font-family: "MS 明朝"; }p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal { margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt; font-size: 12pt; font-family: "Times New Roman"; }.MsoChpDefault { font-size: 10pt; }div.WordSection1 { page: WordSection1; }</style> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">This weekend was another round of intensive quechua classes, four hours a day of grammar, vocabulary and painstaking practice. For me, the classes are always a bit frustrating. As soon as you walk out the door, perhaps with a bit of spring in your step after mastering the tricky “ku” suffix, you hear quechua. On my way back up to Musho every afternoon, I was surrounded by Quechua in the car.<span style=""> </span>Straining my ears and trying to look nonchalant, I would try to understand the conversation around me. Inevitably, I would get lost. </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">Quechua, you see, is a language of suffixes. You may with one word: “sha”<span style=""> </span>(to stand up) then add on “-mu” (directionally towards me) then “-rku” (directionally upwards) then “-ri” (quickly and just a little) to get “shamurkuri-“ which still must be conjugated and only the will mean “coming uphill for a little while.” I can also make it a question by adding “-ku” to the conjugated verb: “Shamurkurinki-ku?” “Are you coming uphill for a little while?” Quechua says with one maddening word what we say with 8. </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">However, what frustrates me also fascinates me. There is a suffix for humility and politeness (-lla, which changes the sense of any verb “Shamulla-“ would be, to come in a very humble and polite form) and a suffix for action realized on behalf of a community or group. There is a suffix for shared action (fighting, kissing, talking) and a suffix for meaning to help another person to do something (making the verbs learn, eat, sleep into teach, feed and put to bed).<br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--CUqdG8arW8/T15dNNLqKHI/AAAAAAAAASo/VP3gyFV5QEQ/s1600/SAM_1095.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--CUqdG8arW8/T15dNNLqKHI/AAAAAAAAASo/VP3gyFV5QEQ/s400/SAM_1095.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5719111058265352306" border="0" /></a></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">Though I am no linguist, I like to think that these overly-specific, maddening suffixes not only act as a thorny barrier to my understanding but also show a lot about the Quechua culture. Our professor compared “-lla” (the suffix for politeness) to “por favor” (please, in Spanish), explaining that while you can use please in a tone of annoyance or demand (or sarcasm, in the States, “puh-lease…”), “-lla” could never be used that way and thus adds infinitely more courtesy to whatever action is realized.<span style=""> </span>To work on behalf of the community is different than working for yourself, as kissing as a shared action is very different than kissing as a individual act. </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">Once I remember reading (probably in preparation for our rather bumbling journey to see Liesel) of a bilingual man, Japanese- English, who felt that his personality actually changed depending on the language that he spoke. In Japanese, he felt less selfish, more inclined to consider group and community. I wonder if the same thing happens to Quechua speakers. If so, I feel as though it gives far more reason to promote and cherish the Quechua language. With it´s demise may also come a diminished politeness and gentleness, a Spanish brashness and arrogance. For instance, I have been catcalled only once in Quechua and it was “kuyaqmi” (I love you) whereas it would take pages to note all the catcalls I´ve heard in Spanish. In 10 years, I want to know what language Musho will speak and what sort of changes that will bring about. In the mean time, I will suffer through pages of verbal and nominative suffixes in a quest for understanding.<br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zd1BcTpNwYg/T15dOaz2pKI/AAAAAAAAAS4/9VoQS2uPTF4/s1600/SAM_1085.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zd1BcTpNwYg/T15dOaz2pKI/AAAAAAAAAS4/9VoQS2uPTF4/s400/SAM_1085.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5719111079103472802" border="0" /></a></p>Kaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05164416716810207983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2508059818244449434.post-8229935098948829452012-03-12T11:36:00.000-07:002012-03-12T11:49:39.647-07:00Quechuata allí kosa yachakullaykaa!!<style>@font-face { font-family: "MS 明朝"; }@font-face { font-family: "MS 明朝"; }p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal { margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt; font-size: 12pt; font-family: "Times New Roman"; }.MsoChpDefault { font-size: 10pt; }div.WordSection1 { page: WordSection1; }</style> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">This weekend was another round of intensive quechua classes, four hours a day of grammar, vocabulary and painstaking practice. For me, the classes are always a bit frustrating. As soon as you walk out the door, perhaps with a bit of spring in your step after mastering the tricky “ku” suffix, you hear quechua. On my way back up to Musho every afternoon, I was surrounded by Quechua in the car.<span style=""> </span>Straining my ears and trying to look nonchalant, I would try to understand the conversation around me. Inevitably, I would get lost. </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">Quechua, you see, is a language of suffixes. You may with one word: “sha”<span style=""> </span>(to stand up) then add on “-mu” (directionally towards me) then “-rku” (directionally upwards) then “-ri” (quickly and just a little) to get “shamurkuri-“ which still must be conjugated and only the will mean “coming uphill for a little while.” I can also make it a question by adding “-ku” to the conjugated verb: “Shamurkurinki-ku?” “Are you coming uphill for a little while?” Quechua says with one maddening word what we say with 8. </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">However, what frustrates me also fascinates me. There is a suffix for humility and politeness (-lla, which changes the sense of any verb “Shamulla-“ would be, to come in a very humble and polite form) and a suffix for action realized on behalf of a community or group. There is a suffix for shared action (fighting, kissing, talking) and a suffix for meaning to help another person to do something (making the verbs learn, eat, sleep into teach, feed and put to bed). </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">Though I am no linguist, I like to think that these overly-specific, maddening suffixes not only act as a thorny barrier to my understanding but also show a lot about the Quechua culture. Our professor compared “-lla” (the suffix for politeness) to “por favor” (please, in Spanish), explaining that while you can use please in a tone of annoyance or demand (or sarcasm, in the States, “puh-lease…”), “-lla” could never be used that way and thus adds infinitely more courtesy to whatever action is realized.<span style=""> </span>To work on behalf of the community is different than working for yourself, as kissing as a shared action is very different than kissing as a individual act. </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">Once I remember reading (probably in preparation for our rather bumbling journey to see Liesel) of a bilingual man, Japanese- English, who felt that his personality actually changed depending on the language that he spoke. In Japanese, he felt less selfish, more inclined to consider group and community. I wonder if the same thing happens to Quechua speakers. If so, I feel as though it gives far more reason to promote and cherish the Quechua language. With it´s demise may also come a diminished politeness and gentleness, a Spanish brashness and arrogance. For instance, I have been catcalled only once in Quechua and it was “kuyaqmi” (I love you) whereas it would take pages to note all the catcalls I´ve heard in Spanish. In 10 years, I want to know what language Musho will speak and what sort of changes that will bring about. In the mean time, I will suffer through pages of verbal and nominative suffixes in a quest for understanding. </span></p>Kaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05164416716810207983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2508059818244449434.post-75739962635882159722012-01-10T14:39:00.000-08:002012-01-10T14:43:41.066-08:00A New Hope<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_Ug3a56xZIc/Twy-qutmDxI/AAAAAAAAAR0/elNeTqVlJ5w/s1600/SAM_1043.JPG"><br /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ESet-Ijby00/Twy-qHxrmwI/AAAAAAAAARk/eEFdLJJ48ks/s1600/SAM_1055.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ESet-Ijby00/Twy-qHxrmwI/AAAAAAAAARk/eEFdLJJ48ks/s400/SAM_1055.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5696137259568044802" border="0" /></a> <style>@font-face { font-family: "MS 明朝"; }@font-face { font-family: "MS 明朝"; }p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal { margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt; font-size: 12pt; font-family: "Times New Roman"; }.MsoChpDefault { font-size: 10pt; }div.WordSection1 { page: WordSection1; }</style> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">Last week,<span style=""> </span>I watched, little by little, the entire older <i style="">Star Wars</i> trilogy. Each evening, 9 pm found me curled up in bed, computer atop my lap, engrossed in the adventures of the Alliance against the evil Gallatic Empire. Was this the best use of my time? Perhaps not, but, as has become my new guilt-free philosophy, what work would I do at 9pm, with my host parents and siblings asleep? Also, for a couple days, it was the best answer to a long day full of frustration—too much bureaucracy, too many blank faces when I asked people to do their jobs, too many moments in which I asked myself why I had come back. </span></p><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_Ug3a56xZIc/Twy-qutmDxI/AAAAAAAAAR0/elNeTqVlJ5w/s1600/SAM_1043.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_Ug3a56xZIc/Twy-qutmDxI/AAAAAAAAAR0/elNeTqVlJ5w/s400/SAM_1043.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5696137270019886866" border="0" /></a><br /><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">However, gradually, as I progressed from Monday to Friday and <i style="">A New Hope </i>to <i style="">Return of the Jedi, </i>life started filling again. I found a group of children willing to learn ultimate Frisbee, babysat my goddaughter enough to make a connection again, and, more than anything, continued to run into the people I love in Musho. </span></p> <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-an1nl53R8Z4/Twy-ptTZPbI/AAAAAAAAARY/YbdSdWTaIQs/s1600/SAM_1062.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-an1nl53R8Z4/Twy-ptTZPbI/AAAAAAAAARY/YbdSdWTaIQs/s400/SAM_1062.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5696137252461690290" border="0" /></a><span style="">Honest with myself and the world, the reason I chose to stay a 3<sup>rd</sup> year here is not the deep necessity of health and development work (it certainly exists of course) nor that I won´t receive a replacement volunteer (though I won´t) but because of the relationships I have built with people. This will make my eventually goodbye far harder but remembering that fact—and having my projects get going again—makes this 3<sup>rd</sup> year make sense again. </span><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-r4kk9HbPiC4/Twy-pWPe_lI/AAAAAAAAARM/94ekVeQTi9c/s1600/SAM_1038_2.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 332px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-r4kk9HbPiC4/Twy-pWPe_lI/AAAAAAAAARM/94ekVeQTi9c/s400/SAM_1038_2.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5696137246271274578" border="0" /></a>Kaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05164416716810207983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2508059818244449434.post-59221947533554559602012-01-06T09:27:00.000-08:002012-01-06T16:50:14.130-08:00First week back...<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1ygnZeaIXMI/TweVLCCCQNI/AAAAAAAAAQ8/xD3NnDfKWpg/s1600/SAM_1015.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1ygnZeaIXMI/TweVLCCCQNI/AAAAAAAAAQ8/xD3NnDfKWpg/s400/SAM_1015.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5694684270589788370" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DpSWwTC4b2I/TweVK71TKoI/AAAAAAAAAQ0/fKydKEmbCDM/s1600/SAM_1018.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 345px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DpSWwTC4b2I/TweVK71TKoI/AAAAAAAAAQ0/fKydKEmbCDM/s400/SAM_1018.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5694684268925758082" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jGC4RYFCCrs/TweVKaw5DkI/AAAAAAAAAQo/ok4hLktVXrI/s1600/SAM_1022.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jGC4RYFCCrs/TweVKaw5DkI/AAAAAAAAAQo/ok4hLktVXrI/s400/SAM_1022.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5694684260048899650" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PxUhZcnevDM/TweVJmwVn3I/AAAAAAAAAQc/SJYdsl-y2KI/s1600/SAM_1026.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PxUhZcnevDM/TweVJmwVn3I/AAAAAAAAAQc/SJYdsl-y2KI/s400/SAM_1026.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5694684246087933810" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-br-Nvmh-Nvk/TweVJWFefyI/AAAAAAAAAQQ/nkOfkdfFeQ4/s1600/SAM_1029.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-br-Nvmh-Nvk/TweVJWFefyI/AAAAAAAAAQQ/nkOfkdfFeQ4/s400/SAM_1029.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5694684241613192994" border="0" /></a>Kaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05164416716810207983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2508059818244449434.post-34259178762453625312011-12-26T20:49:00.000-08:002011-12-26T20:50:24.556-08:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" style="color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: georgia;" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2vwn3nSSOPo/TvlNksCCepI/AAAAAAAAAPE/b5D7_2VtfF0/s1600/photo%25283%2529.jpg"><br /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xZlBG7AsSMU/TvlNjl97MdI/AAAAAAAAAO8/wHkVd1_a4fM/s1600/SAM_0970.JPG"> <style>@font-face { font-family: "MS 明朝"; }@font-face { font-family: "MS 明朝"; }p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal { margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt; font-size: 12pt; font-family: "Times New Roman"; }.MsoChpDefault { font-size: 10pt; }div.WordSection1 { page: WordSection1; }</style> <p style="color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: georgia;" class="MsoNormal"><span style="">Toady I traveled back to Peru after a 6 week leave in the States, encompassing a wedding, reunions and tomfoolery with loved ones, gift-giving and receiving, story-telling and listening. During my morning goodbyes and finally hug to my dad at the airport, I wasn´t sure how I felt—sadness at saying goodbye, with no sense of urgency or finality, but most strangely, a sheer lack of excitement. This dullness continued through my airport time wasting (I tried to tell myself to stock up on American candy bars and magazines, to no avail) and both flights. I didn´t feel scared, nor doubtful, nor worried, but I also didn´t feel the urgency and nervousness I had imagined. It was like going on a business trip to Ohio<span style=""> </span>or to the grocery store to buy eggs- simple, thoughtless and uninspiring. This in itself began to panic me and I tried to analyze but was distracted by Game of Thrones, until I finally arrived in Lima, and was standing in the customs line, behind two confused German women and in front of a blustering American. </span></p> <p style="color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: georgia;" class="MsoNormal"><span style="">It was there that I saw it: in the duty-free store, just ahead, there were four attendants, all unoccupied, all wearing hideous orange matching vests and skirts. There it was—a stunning example of Peruvian inefficiency (any store worth it´s salt will take at least 15 minutes to ring up your purchase, require fashion sacrifices out of its employees, and consider an employee pow-wow more important than customer service). </span></p> <p style="color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: georgia;" class="MsoNormal"><span style="">From then on, I was hooked once more. Through haggling my taxi price, forgetting my ATM card, realizing I had booked at the not-so-nice hostel, crossing my fingers to find my cellphone, and most of all, the wonderful, chaotic ride from the Callao airport to Miraflores, I smiled and giggled like a fat kid with a pocket full of fudge. Even the dirty streets and traffic are like the fart of a loved one—unpleasant, but it´s nice to recognize and remind you who you´re dealing with. Between swerves and near misses in the taxi, I saw graffiti, over-crowded buses and terrible junk cars, stray dogs and cats, tacky billboards, crowded slums and sleeks malls. We passed chifa, pollo a la brasa, tacos, Italian, food carts, tiendas, street vendors and drove through miasmas of frying potatoes and sautéing garlic, of gasoline and sea salt. It was a marvelous gauntlet of reintroduction.</span></p> <p style="color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: georgia;" class="MsoNormal"><span style="">Thank you, Lima, for continually baffling, frustrating and confounding me. It´s good to be back in Peru. </span></p> <br /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Eee9s-ZqB64/TvlNjbOV4zI/AAAAAAAAAOs/N1lMYKN-5uQ/s1600/SAM_0944.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Eee9s-ZqB64/TvlNjbOV4zI/AAAAAAAAAOs/N1lMYKN-5uQ/s400/SAM_0944.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5690664875158004530" border="0" /></a>Kaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05164416716810207983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2508059818244449434.post-31545363929513281922011-10-11T10:02:00.001-07:002011-10-11T10:11:44.272-07:00FIRE!!<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-h8LvaW01TPo/TpR31qfxETI/AAAAAAAAAOQ/uLjcglikQsQ/s1600/SAM_0603.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-h8LvaW01TPo/TpR31qfxETI/AAAAAAAAAOQ/uLjcglikQsQ/s400/SAM_0603.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5662282395335856434" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9FS7MU4YAI4/TpR31VyBmII/AAAAAAAAAOA/CwltUx2UbLk/s1600/SAM_0600.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9FS7MU4YAI4/TpR31VyBmII/AAAAAAAAAOA/CwltUx2UbLk/s400/SAM_0600.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5662282389775292546" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-j_vMK-EtdbU/TpR30-DolwI/AAAAAAAAAN0/fZ2YrJmVXAw/s1600/SAM_0595.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-j_vMK-EtdbU/TpR30-DolwI/AAAAAAAAAN0/fZ2YrJmVXAw/s400/SAM_0595.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5662282383406700290" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ChZEqD1LNeg/TpR30nfzdOI/AAAAAAAAANo/ZHn5RcCB98c/s1600/SAM_0594.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ChZEqD1LNeg/TpR30nfzdOI/AAAAAAAAANo/ZHn5RcCB98c/s400/SAM_0594.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5662282377350837474" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QuzYJxt984A/TpR30TfHmjI/AAAAAAAAANc/6ngbom1I80c/s1600/SAM_0591.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QuzYJxt984A/TpR30TfHmjI/AAAAAAAAANc/6ngbom1I80c/s400/SAM_0591.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5662282371979254322" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-h8LvaW01TPo/TpR31qfxETI/AAAAAAAAAOQ/uLjcglikQsQ/s1600/SAM_0603.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-h8LvaW01TPo/TpR31qfxETI/AAAAAAAAAOQ/uLjcglikQsQ/s400/SAM_0603.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5662282395335856434" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9FS7MU4YAI4/TpR31VyBmII/AAAAAAAAAOA/CwltUx2UbLk/s1600/SAM_0600.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9FS7MU4YAI4/TpR31VyBmII/AAAAAAAAAOA/CwltUx2UbLk/s400/SAM_0600.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5662282389775292546" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-j_vMK-EtdbU/TpR30-DolwI/AAAAAAAAAN0/fZ2YrJmVXAw/s1600/SAM_0595.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-j_vMK-EtdbU/TpR30-DolwI/AAAAAAAAAN0/fZ2YrJmVXAw/s400/SAM_0595.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5662282383406700290" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ChZEqD1LNeg/TpR30nfzdOI/AAAAAAAAANo/ZHn5RcCB98c/s1600/SAM_0594.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ChZEqD1LNeg/TpR30nfzdOI/AAAAAAAAANo/ZHn5RcCB98c/s400/SAM_0594.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5662282377350837474" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QuzYJxt984A/TpR30TfHmjI/AAAAAAAAANc/6ngbom1I80c/s1600/SAM_0591.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QuzYJxt984A/TpR30TfHmjI/AAAAAAAAANc/6ngbom1I80c/s400/SAM_0591.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5662282371979254322" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-j_vMK-EtdbU/TpR30-DolwI/AAAAAAAAAN0/fZ2YrJmVXAw/s1600/SAM_0595.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-j_vMK-EtdbU/TpR30-DolwI/AAAAAAAAAN0/fZ2YrJmVXAw/s400/SAM_0595.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5662282383406700290" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-j_vMK-EtdbU/TpR30-DolwI/AAAAAAAAAN0/fZ2YrJmVXAw/s1600/SAM_0595.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-j_vMK-EtdbU/TpR30-DolwI/AAAAAAAAAN0/fZ2YrJmVXAw/s400/SAM_0595.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5662282383406700290" border="0" /></a><br /> <style>@font-face { font-family: "MS 明朝"; }@font-face { font-family: "MS 明朝"; }p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal { margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt; font-size: 12pt; font-family: "Times New Roman"; }.MsoChpDefault { font-size: 10pt; }div.WordSection1 { page: WordSection1; }</style> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">Starting last Wednesday, I had an unusual view from my home—not just my daily vista of Huascaran, but also of huge clouds of smoke, as wildfires swept the forest below Huascaran. Having read accounts of out of control blazes in the States, I was fascinated and terrified by the sight. My host parents assured me that <i style="">comuneros, </i>people who held community land in the forest, would fight the fire—with dirt, water or ditches. For three days we worried, watching the black swath grow across the base of Huascaran. Finally, it rained, and I ventured up to see the results. This is the strange landscape that I found. </span></p> <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-h8LvaW01TPo/TpR31qfxETI/AAAAAAAAAOQ/uLjcglikQsQ/s1600/SAM_0603.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-h8LvaW01TPo/TpR31qfxETI/AAAAAAAAAOQ/uLjcglikQsQ/s400/SAM_0603.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5662282395335856434" border="0" /> <style>@font-face { font-family: "MS 明朝"; }@font-face { font-family: "MS 明朝"; }p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal { margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt; font-size: 12pt; font-family: "Times New Roman"; }.MsoChpDefault { font-size: 10pt; }div.WordSection1 { page: WordSection1; }</style> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">Starting last Wednesday, I had an unusual view from my home—not just my daily vista of Huascaran, but also of huge clouds of smoke, as wildfires swept the forest below Huascaran. Having read accounts of out of control blazes in the States, I was fascinated and terrified by the sight. My host parents assured me that <i style="">comuneros, </i>people who held community land in the forest, would fight the fire—with dirt, water or ditches. For three days we worried, watching the black swath grow across the base of Huascaran. Finally, it rained, and I ventured up to see the results. This is the strange landscape that I found. </span></p> </a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9FS7MU4YAI4/TpR31VyBmII/AAAAAAAAAOA/CwltUx2UbLk/s1600/SAM_0600.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9FS7MU4YAI4/TpR31VyBmII/AAAAAAAAAOA/CwltUx2UbLk/s400/SAM_0600.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5662282389775292546" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ChZEqD1LNeg/TpR30nfzdOI/AAAAAAAAANo/ZHn5RcCB98c/s1600/SAM_0594.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ChZEqD1LNeg/TpR30nfzdOI/AAAAAAAAANo/ZHn5RcCB98c/s400/SAM_0594.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5662282377350837474" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QuzYJxt984A/TpR30TfHmjI/AAAAAAAAANc/6ngbom1I80c/s1600/SAM_0591.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QuzYJxt984A/TpR30TfHmjI/AAAAAAAAANc/6ngbom1I80c/s400/SAM_0591.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5662282371979254322" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-h8LvaW01TPo/TpR31qfxETI/AAAAAAAAAOQ/uLjcglikQsQ/s1600/SAM_0603.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-h8LvaW01TPo/TpR31qfxETI/AAAAAAAAAOQ/uLjcglikQsQ/s400/SAM_0603.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5662282395335856434" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9FS7MU4YAI4/TpR31VyBmII/AAAAAAAAAOA/CwltUx2UbLk/s1600/SAM_0600.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9FS7MU4YAI4/TpR31VyBmII/AAAAAAAAAOA/CwltUx2UbLk/s400/SAM_0600.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5662282389775292546" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ChZEqD1LNeg/TpR30nfzdOI/AAAAAAAAANo/ZHn5RcCB98c/s1600/SAM_0594.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ChZEqD1LNeg/TpR30nfzdOI/AAAAAAAAANo/ZHn5RcCB98c/s400/SAM_0594.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5662282377350837474" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QuzYJxt984A/TpR30TfHmjI/AAAAAAAAANc/6ngbom1I80c/s1600/SAM_0591.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QuzYJxt984A/TpR30TfHmjI/AAAAAAAAANc/6ngbom1I80c/s400/SAM_0591.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5662282371979254322" border="0" /></a>Kaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05164416716810207983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2508059818244449434.post-78610060862165831012011-09-10T14:56:00.000-07:002011-09-10T15:57:19.632-07:00Homecoming<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-T_Z5eFqMP9U/TmvgiMrNGkI/AAAAAAAAANU/5DKMYcSeQwM/s1600/SAM_0400.JPG"><br /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iXrfghtjByU/TmvgiBd52UI/AAAAAAAAANM/7rSl2eZ8ITA/s1600/SAM_0395.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iXrfghtjByU/TmvgiBd52UI/AAAAAAAAANM/7rSl2eZ8ITA/s400/SAM_0395.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5650857032580454722" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YNunIH12mGM/Tmvghk4ctaI/AAAAAAAAAM8/siIeGb1ktxw/s1600/SAM_0373.JPG"><br /></a><br /> <style>@font-face { font-family: "MS 明朝"; }@font-face { font-family: "Cambria Math"; }p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal { margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt; font-size: 12pt; font-family: "Times New Roman"; }.MsoChpDefault { font-size: 10pt; }div.WordSection1 { page: WordSection1; }</style> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">A homecoming is many things—a return from travel with stories to tell and gifts to give, a silly high school dance to be fretted over, a celebration after long trials, greeting loved ones after a long or short absence. Over the past couple weeks I have had homecoming on my mind. First I attended our Close of Service (COS) Conference, where I greeted some volunteers after nearly two years without seeing them and saw other good friends for the last time. The topics were varied but focused on two things: saying goodbye to our communities in Peru and re-adjusting to the United States. Everyone threw around phrases like “culture shock” and solemnly asked about plans for the future. </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">Myself, I´ve been torn about my November leave date. On one hand, it has been far too long that I have been barefoot, curled up on the couch during a family cocktail hour, hearing the sarcasm, ridiculous stories and passionate debates that characterize our family. I miss everyone there—even my nephew, who I have yet to meet. However, going there means leaving here, where I also have people I love and a job I find challenging and fulfilling. The conference and days in Lima, spent walking, talking, shopping, dancing and generally chilling with other volunteers, helped me see some more of the appeals of going home—conversations about more than the weather, easy access to stores with fresh fruits and veggies, regular hot showers, to name a few.<span style=""> </span>The week was so relaxing and enjoyable that I wondered if, for the first time, I wouldn´t be happy returning to Musho. What if I had somehow readjusted to city life?</span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">With some apprehension over that thought, I arrived in Musho at 8, exhausted after a night bus. It was a wonderful day. My host family was so happy to see me that Edita broke her shyness barrier and gave me a hug (and then invited me to my favorite soup at lunch), my early childhood stimulation session at the health post went wonderfully, comments about the rain, where had I gone etc. were welcome and hilarious—in short, I arrived and felt like I was home.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YNunIH12mGM/Tmvghk4ctaI/AAAAAAAAAM8/siIeGb1ktxw/s1600/SAM_0373.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YNunIH12mGM/Tmvghk4ctaI/AAAAAAAAAM8/siIeGb1ktxw/s400/SAM_0373.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5650857024907163042" border="0" /></a><span style=""> Even in the evening, when Jesus dutiful plied the donors of the graduation party with beer (his responsibility as president of the graduation), I laughed, refused to participate, and didn´t mind at all.<span style=""> </span>Home isn´t always about being comfortable or perfectly relaxed, I think, but contains some ephemeral quality that envelops you while you´re there. It is annoyance as much as affection; part of the comfort of home is the ability to be uncomfortable and still be happy. After a two-year absence, how quickly will I fall back into home once in my Stateside home?<br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-T_Z5eFqMP9U/TmvgiMrNGkI/AAAAAAAAANU/5DKMYcSeQwM/s1600/SAM_0400.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-T_Z5eFqMP9U/TmvgiMrNGkI/AAAAAAAAANU/5DKMYcSeQwM/s400/SAM_0400.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5650857035589032514" border="0" /></a></p>Kaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05164416716810207983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2508059818244449434.post-10561291032611207802011-07-30T05:55:00.000-07:002011-07-30T16:47:33.151-07:00Learning to get along with the borrachitos<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MTKfH5g0yOE/TjSU0hSxTvI/AAAAAAAAAM0/PqNKurtXOtw/s1600/SAM_0088.JPG"><br /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZgH43jRRY38/TjSU0Yfr5zI/AAAAAAAAAMs/zvoBiYXr5PM/s1600/SAM_0053.JPG"><br /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IBYznXsvI7M/TjSU0D9CwII/AAAAAAAAAMk/nf-OOP58roo/s1600/SAM_0044.JPG"><br /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-X5FqjFkGHso/TjSUz5vGLQI/AAAAAAAAAMc/IV9zPvzS0Zo/s1600/SAM_0032.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-X5FqjFkGHso/TjSUz5vGLQI/AAAAAAAAAMc/IV9zPvzS0Zo/s400/SAM_0032.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5635292653139930370" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Si-zuLlxO-g/TjSUzvEcYuI/AAAAAAAAAMU/_pMP0v4ZWpg/s1600/SAM_0025.JPG"><br /></a><br /> <style>@font-face { font-family: "MS 明朝"; }@font-face { font-family: "MS 明朝"; }p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal { margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt; font-size: 12pt; font-family: "Times New Roman"; }.MsoChpDefault { font-size: 10pt; }div.WordSection1 { page: WordSection1; }</style> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">Often, partially to try to make sense of such an overwhelming experience and partially because of a long love of trashy romance novels and chick flick movies, I compare my tenure in Musho to falling in love. It may seem bizarre or unusual to make this comparison—Musho is a place, not a person, to state the extremely obvious. Even so, the metaphor works better than anything else I might invent. </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">Like any loved one, Musho is not always perfect. In fact, we often fight and grate on each other. There are many personality quirks that drive me to stuff a change of clothes and my laptop into a backpack and almost run down the hill to Huaraz. The strange thing is, though, that we´ve worked through almost all these quirks. The past tense—drove—might be more appropriate. Through exposure and a little bit of learned patience, I tolerate Musho´s worst habits—and some even bring a smile, as if at an adored one´s antics. While I had, through my chronicling of my love affair, noted this change, it was presented to me strikingly last weekend. </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">As some of you may know, Peru beat Venezuela 4-1 to win 3<sup>rd</sup> place in the Copa de las Americas last Saturday. I didn´t watch the game—we didn´t have the channel and I spent the day in my usual weekend relaxation, some house visits, some walking, some lesson-planning, and an hour in the late afternoon, reading in the cemetery. On my way home, I went to buy flour and other necessities at one of the local stores. Walking in, the owner and one of my neighbor´s declared, “We have been drinking soda, señorita!” in a way that assured me they had actually been drinking beer. </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">When I first came to Musho—to back track—the sight of grown men publically drunk in daylight startled and disgusted me. I would do anything—walk hours out of my way or out of town—to avoid the encounter. On Saturday, though, I just smiled to myself and asked for flour. In his tipsy state, the owner measured, weighed and dispatched the flour far slower than usual so we had time for a long conversation, including the following exchange: </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">DRUNK NEIGHBOR: Señorita, I have a question </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">ME: Sure, what? <i style="">laughing slightly</i></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">DRUNK NEIGHBOR: I think you are a spy. </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">ME: <i style="">obviously this was not a question, so I ignored it</i></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">DRUNK NEIGHBOR: Do you know what a spy is? </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">ME: Yes, and I am one. </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">DRUNK NEIGHBOR: <i style="">bafflement </i></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">ME: I count all the cows, chickens and guinea pigs that you have and tell the CIA. It´s a big concern of President Obama´s. </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">STORE OWNER: <i style="">catching on</i> Yes, she also registers all the borrachitos (little drunks) and tells the US government about it. </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">DRUNK NEIGHBOR: <i style="">believing, stupefied. </i></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">With that, I escaped, laughing, and it didn´t occur to me until later that I had actually had an exchange with two drunk men in my community free of judgment, embarrassment or discomfort. Rather it had been enjoyable and sort of a highlight. I´m not sure what I owe my change in perspective to—perhaps learned patience or slightly lessened self-centeredness. After so many months in Musho, I´ve realized that when you set out on any errand, you will probably be waylaid, whether by a friendly neighbor wanting to chat, a grandmother needing help with her burro, school kids asking for English help or someone inviting you to a bowl of soup. Of course, you can rudely press on, but it´s usually not necessary. In the states, I was used to getting things done and being efficient, that I had to learn the value in wasting time. Maybe I go out to do house visits and end up sitting for an hour chatting at the first house. That´s okay. There is another day to finish the houses. It´s taken me a long time to learn this, but the lesson serves me well. Let´s hope this learned serenity lasts me through the August fiestas.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">Here are a few scenes from walking around and also teaching:<br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Si-zuLlxO-g/TjSUzvEcYuI/AAAAAAAAAMU/_pMP0v4ZWpg/s1600/SAM_0025.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Si-zuLlxO-g/TjSUzvEcYuI/AAAAAAAAAMU/_pMP0v4ZWpg/s400/SAM_0025.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5635292650276676322" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MTKfH5g0yOE/TjSU0hSxTvI/AAAAAAAAAM0/PqNKurtXOtw/s1600/SAM_0088.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MTKfH5g0yOE/TjSU0hSxTvI/AAAAAAAAAM0/PqNKurtXOtw/s400/SAM_0088.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5635292663758540530" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZgH43jRRY38/TjSU0Yfr5zI/AAAAAAAAAMs/zvoBiYXr5PM/s1600/SAM_0053.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZgH43jRRY38/TjSU0Yfr5zI/AAAAAAAAAMs/zvoBiYXr5PM/s400/SAM_0053.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5635292661396793138" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IBYznXsvI7M/TjSU0D9CwII/AAAAAAAAAMk/nf-OOP58roo/s1600/SAM_0044.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IBYznXsvI7M/TjSU0D9CwII/AAAAAAAAAMk/nf-OOP58roo/s400/SAM_0044.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5635292655882780802" border="0" /></a></p>Kaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05164416716810207983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2508059818244449434.post-14704950029559993322011-07-14T12:20:00.000-07:002011-07-17T11:47:48.139-07:00Stand-Up, Quechua Style<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Q-oKSDrgc2Y/TiII4tpQIdI/AAAAAAAAAMM/1tAx2Ugyi2E/s1600/P1010328.JPG"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span><br /></a><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">It would utter arrogance to call myself much of a comedian. My sense of humor tends towards the sarcastic, called the lowest form of wit and not at all understood in most of Péru. However, in the first minutes after I met my host mom, Edita (she was picking chili pepper in the middle of a field; I was exhausted and bewildered), I had her in stitches. The joke? My name: Kaitlyn, then my second name: Keirsey and my last name: Stanhope, each of which she asked for in turn and then realized she couldn´t pronounce any of them. It was a silly moment for both of us, and I knew we would be okay—not really mother-daughter, but friends. </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">After 20 months here, I would like to say that my jokes have moved beyond just unpronounceable English words and into a<span style=""> </span>more sophisticated realm. I do include some all purpose quechua phrases as icebreakers in a meeting or house visit. Saying something like, this is my friend; he´s come to Péru to find a wife is a sure success when presenting a visitor and, in my case, anything about doing work in the fields, Peruvian men or babies is like a Chris Rock stand-up show. </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">The sense of humor in my site is similarly foreign. Sarcasm is unknown and not understood (Sometimes when people ask questions like, “Are you walking uphill?” as I clearly walk up hill and I can´t help but say something like, “No, I´m knitting a sweater.” This is incomprehensible). Slapstick humor on tv and movies is quite popular and, in person, jokes range from teasing to anecdotes with punchlines that I never quite get. The teasing is easy enough: for me, it´s usually about finding a husband, or that my 34 year old mom is going to hit me if I stay out late or that I should always wear my pollera, the traditional garb. I can give and take with the best of my “paisanos” (countrymen) from Musho. The anecdotes are tougher. Usually I just stare at the storyteller at the end, thinking there is more to come, as everyone around me bursts into laughter. </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">My lack of humor, at least in certain situations worried me until I remember the all-purpose Peace Corps out: it´s cultural. It is, though. As there are certain things here that I find hilarious and cannot share with my host family, the reserve is also true. This makes telling and sharing jokes a sort of challenge and surprisingly rewarding. Never in my life have I been the sort to think of a joke and eagerly anticipate the telling. However, now, when I think of a funny line to tell to a quechua grandma on the street, I find myself giggling as I walk up to her. </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">A killer from yesterday: I saw a giant, nice SUV parked on the dirt street in Musho and one of my quechua-speaking neighbors coming down the road. I asked her (in quechua): “Is that your car?” It was amazing. She laughed and laughed, then said that no, it must be my car and I said no. Translated it´s not particularly funny, but walking away from my still giggling 70 year old neighbor, I felt so cool—the nerdy girl who has managed to get into the popular crowd. In a way, it is the same sort of thing. The likelihood of a vegetarian, sarcastic, academic-oriented, city-raised, American foreigner being able to laugh with a quechua-speaking, subsistence farming, semi-literate woman, is wonderful. </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">Two of the Peace Corps´s three goals are about a cultural exchange—Americans learning about Peruvian culture and Peruvians learning about American culture. We do this through food, through sports, through dance, through music, through manners and, a little bit, through laughter.<br /></span></p><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dQexL9A0tbI/TiII3yxTQII/AAAAAAAAAME/cDdA7VVuD9I/s1600/P1010053.JPG"><br /></a>And here are some moments I have found hilarious:<br />My house mom dancing with her baby bundled onto her back.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dQexL9A0tbI/TiII3yxTQII/AAAAAAAAAME/cDdA7VVuD9I/s1600/P1010053.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dQexL9A0tbI/TiII3yxTQII/AAAAAAAAAME/cDdA7VVuD9I/s400/P1010053.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630072238780924034" border="0" /></a>And here are some moments I have found hilarious:<br />My house mom dancing with her baby bundled onto her back.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8uM0IGDGPIA/TiII3f_9FCI/AAAAAAAAAL8/4VUdKEiw5sE/s1600/P1010042.JPG"><br /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gsITArxkXTk/TiII3DCX8uI/AAAAAAAAAL0/3qJ_F7U9rLo/s1600/P1010035_2.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gsITArxkXTk/TiII3DCX8uI/AAAAAAAAAL0/3qJ_F7U9rLo/s400/P1010035_2.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630072225967633122" border="0" /></a>The tradition of shoving a birthday boy´s (or girl´s) face into their cake.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WaMWAahI3MQ/TiII3CLoRsI/AAAAAAAAALs/4jmtlBn35kE/s1600/P1010003_2.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 362px; height: 400px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WaMWAahI3MQ/TiII3CLoRsI/AAAAAAAAALs/4jmtlBn35kE/s400/P1010003_2.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5630072225738016450" border="0" /></a>And this absurd looking pig.<br /> <style>@font-face { font-family: "MS 明朝"; }@font-face { font-family: "MS 明朝"; }p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal { margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt; font-size: 12pt; font-family: "Times New Roman"; }.MsoChpDefault { font-size: 10pt; }div.WordSection1 { page: WordSection1; }</style>Kaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05164416716810207983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2508059818244449434.post-66828513189438551522011-07-02T11:51:00.001-07:002011-07-02T12:38:02.807-07:00We are Family!! I got all my sisters and me...<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qS8UM2xzhpo/Tg9xVCVKiRI/AAAAAAAAALk/jYhRyHiQXCQ/s1600/P1010194.JPG"><br /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Teebah0QdWQ/Tg9xVDpV1nI/AAAAAAAAALc/Eijw5oNPl3w/s1600/P1010174.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Teebah0QdWQ/Tg9xVDpV1nI/AAAAAAAAALc/Eijw5oNPl3w/s400/P1010174.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5624839066178934386" border="0" /></a><br /> <style>@font-face { font-family: "MS 明朝"; }@font-face { font-family: "MS 明朝"; }p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal { margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt; font-size: 12pt; font-family: "Times New Roman"; }.MsoChpDefault { font-size: 10pt; }div.WordSection1 { page: WordSection1; }</style> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">Family is a fairly flexible term. It can mean the nuclear unit that you are related to, can extend to cousins, aunts, uncles—and outward, for genealogists. To others, family means the people that you choose to spend your life and time with. In theater, work units are often described like a family. In Ancash, the Peace Corps volunteers refer to “our Ancash family,” only partly a joke, because the support system is as powerful as a blood tie. Over the past few years, I´ve had host families in Santiago, Quito, Lima and Musho. Naturally, my Musho family is the closest connection, but in each case I found support, caring and something special in the connection over the months I lived there. </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">After living here, in Musho, my definition of family has changed. I´ve mentioned before the custom here: that parents, children, grandchildren often continue living in the same house for years after the children grow up and, often, marry. The idea of living alone, or moving far from parents and siblings, is strange and marveled at. This I learned, laughed at, and then accepted (and now sort of like—next year I will definitely be in my parent´s house) long ago. Lately, though, I´ve been more and more intrigued by extended family connections. The term “tia” (aunt) or “tio” (uncle) can be used for any person of the right age. I often use them when somebody´s real name escapes me; it´s quite convenient. However, it can mask true family connections. A couple weeks ago, I learned that about 75% of Apa Grande, the community in which I am working on an improved stoves project, is related. Fairly closely. It´s a small community of about 30-40 households, and it makes sense. Sort of—10 out of the 17 families in my stoves project are aunts, uncles, brothers, sisters or first degree cousins of one another. I wouldn´t be surprised if the other 7 are second or third cousins. The amazing thing here is that, aside from addressing one another as tio and tia, they are as gossipy and backstabbing as the cast of characters from <i style="">Mean Girls. </i></span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">This shock started me thinking: if family can act like this, does it even matter? If a tia can spend a good 20 minutes trash-talking her niece, daughter-in-law or cousin, what do family ties even mean? It took a visit from one of my oldest and best friends, Roseanna, to set me straight. We had a great, eventful trip to the jungle and also spent a couple of hangout days in Lima. It was fantastic; despite awkward sleeping arrangements, a canoe voyage similar to Monster´s Plantation and lots of weird food, I felt relaxed and happy the entire time. The day after Roseanna left, my mom spent an hour on Skype talking me through an awful case of Lima-glumness and Roseanna-withdrawal. </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">Suddenly, I knew what family is. Partially, and importantly, it is, as my sister Sally defines it, the people who love you when you are unlovable (depressed, belligerent, frustrated, withdrawn, etc.) and partially, it is the people who love you enough to allow you to be yourself, to relax. Family is what you make it; an aunt who you trash talk and wouldn´t invite to even one boiled potato is nothing, yet a foreigner who you invite into your home, teach about strange food and customs and consult on important decisions (like whether to sign up for cable—weird, right?) becomes something. Perhaps I am not actually the gringa daughter that we joke about, or the sister of the soul that my friend Lidia called me during a toast the other night, but I´m something. Similarly, I know that I have so much family at home, not only the ones who are actually related to me, but all the wonderful people who have supported me throughout my life and, from afar, for these years. That´s what will bring me back to the States—but the same sort of connections are what tie me to Musho.<br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qS8UM2xzhpo/Tg9xVCVKiRI/AAAAAAAAALk/jYhRyHiQXCQ/s1600/P1010194.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 224px; height: 400px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qS8UM2xzhpo/Tg9xVCVKiRI/AAAAAAAAALk/jYhRyHiQXCQ/s400/P1010194.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5624839065825872146" border="0" /></a></p>Kaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05164416716810207983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2508059818244449434.post-23254468014412478322011-05-23T05:21:00.000-07:002011-05-23T05:47:54.060-07:00Ay, dios-- I enter a world of passion and intrigue!<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JUmlAPJrkh8/TdpT78WS9CI/AAAAAAAAALQ/-1PuQvpVtRs/s1600/P1010172.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JUmlAPJrkh8/TdpT78WS9CI/AAAAAAAAALQ/-1PuQvpVtRs/s400/P1010172.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5609888575120405538" border="0" /></a> <style>@font-face { font-family: "MS 明朝"; }@font-face { font-family: "MS 明朝"; }p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal { margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt; font-size: 12pt; font-family: "Times New Roman"; }.MsoChpDefault { font-size: 10pt; }div.WordSection1 { page: WordSection1; }</style> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">While I may not have broadcast the fact, last August, I picked up a dangerous (yet common) Peace Corps addiction: television. I kept it in check: one hour every evening. It was a wonderful escape, though. I would watch <i style="">Glee, Mad Men, True Blood, How I Met Your Mother… </i>Each evening´s episode would be like a little trip back to the United States (in it´s own fairly inaccurate way. I am aware that my life never involved vampires, 1950´s male dominated advertising firms or constant bursts into songs). However, this year I cut back. I prefer to read, after all and reserve tv for sick days or when I just need distraction. Don´t believe that this is some huge burst in work or intellectual development: each evening I spend in my house and my reading is often as simple as Harry Potter. </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">A few weeks ago, though, with a craft project in front of me, I sat down with my host sister to watch what turned out to be the pilot episode of <i style="">Ana Cristina, </i>a limeña novela. Do I have to explain what happened next? Every night, I sit down with my host siblings at 7 pm with some sort of sewing or craft project, and we watch, gasping, yelling and advising the characters as the situation demands. The setting and plot of the show is lightyears away from our Musho day-to-day: an “amor impossible” between a poor, campo girl and a rich Limeño man, a tale of business backstabbing and revenge. I can´t help but wondering if I give advice to my host sister through this bonding time—in real life, people don´t talk that way; if a man ever treats you that way you should not take him back, but I mostly keep my comments to exclamations on the characters poor decisions: Ana Cristina, why would you take Gonzalo back? Maju, why are you kissing Lucho? Etc. </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=""><br /><span style=""></span></span></p> <br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RSzHGp2hJGo/TdpT7gM4EOI/AAAAAAAAALI/ZR_5cPfMZHE/s1600/P1010166.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RSzHGp2hJGo/TdpT7gM4EOI/AAAAAAAAALI/ZR_5cPfMZHE/s400/P1010166.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5609888567564701922" border="0" /></a><span style="">It´s all very silly but I feel like it has helped bond with my host sister as much as anything during the past year. She asks me for help with her homework more often, to check her email on my computer, and just general questions. Our programmed hour of tv is our time to catch up daily, and I now know what happens in her classes every day, and she knows how my projects are going. So I am grateful for telenovelas—also it´s an amazing show if anyone gets it on their TV. <span style=""></span></span><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IKsmK5711Hc/TdpT7SHMpWI/AAAAAAAAALA/rWZH3KXMkIo/s1600/P1010161.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IKsmK5711Hc/TdpT7SHMpWI/AAAAAAAAALA/rWZH3KXMkIo/s400/P1010161.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5609888563782788450" border="0" /></a>The beautiful pictures are: My host mom with 7-month old Mirella, Mary also with Mirella, and a rainbow across our valley.Kaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05164416716810207983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2508059818244449434.post-5945377127315330782011-04-11T18:44:00.001-07:002011-04-11T18:52:01.171-07:00There are thou happy<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HJCVBczMpXw/TaOvy0ZN7oI/AAAAAAAAAK4/xna9AtaCHI8/s1600/P1010172.JPG"><br /></a><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CnjZSHFP5jE/TaOvyoJcJ9I/AAAAAAAAAKw/Vz89VZYoK1I/s1600/P1010058.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CnjZSHFP5jE/TaOvyoJcJ9I/AAAAAAAAAKw/Vz89VZYoK1I/s400/P1010058.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5594508446429620178" border="0" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6U7-G-hYb2M/TaOvyf5x8DI/AAAAAAAAAKo/qgSDqdxsmik/s1600/P1010029_2.JPG"><br /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6U7-G-hYb2M/TaOvyf5x8DI/AAAAAAAAAKo/qgSDqdxsmik/s1600/P1010029_2.JPG"><br /></a><br /> <style>@font-face { font-family: "MS 明朝"; }@font-face { font-family: "Cambria Math"; }@font-face { font-family: "Big Caslon"; }p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal { margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt; font-size: 12pt; font-family: "Times New Roman"; }.MsoChpDefault { font-size: 10pt; }div.WordSection1 { page: WordSection1; }</style> <p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style=";font-family:";" >“What, rouse thee, man! thy Juliet is alive,<br />For whose dear sake thou wast but lately dead;<br />There art thou happy: Tybalt would kill thee,<br />But thou slew'st Tybalt; there are thou happy too:<br />The law that threaten'd death becomes thy friend<br />And turns it to exile; there art thou happy:<br />A pack of blessings lights up upon thy back;<br />Happiness courts thee in her best array;<br />But, like a misbehaved and sullen wench,<br />Thou pout'st upon thy fortune and thy love:<br />Take heed, take heed, for such die miserable.”</span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><b><i style=""><span style=";font-family:";" >Romeo and Juliet, </span></i></b><b><span style=";font-family:";" >Act III, scene iii, Friar Laurence </span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style=";font-family:";" > </span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style=";font-family:";" >This quote is the inspiration for a game I play with myself in site. Sometimes life in Musho is not to my liking. Sometimes events, set-backs, even people frustrate me to the extent of throwing myself on my bed, looking longingly at pictures of what I call my former life (college, home, nice looking clothing and clean people). This is ridiculous and no way to behave. This quote, therefore, delights me, and inspires me to my game. </span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style=";font-family:";" >An Example: </span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style=";font-family:";" >Say, I´ve been invited to a lunch, potatoes, with potato soup, and flour gruel for dessert. I stumble out of the house, muttering some excuse for not having seconds, and clutching my overfull stomach. Obviously I am ready for self-pity. So I play the game: </span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style=";font-family:";" >“Look, there is Huascaran, there are thou happy.” </span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style=";font-family:";" >“You finished 2 plates of potatoes and delighted that mom, there are thou happy.” </span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style=";font-family:";" >“You can walk through the fields and woods until your belly is no longer distended, there are thou happy.” </span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style=";font-family:";" >“You have people here who care about you (even if the only way they show it is in quantity of potatoes served), there are thou happy.” </span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style=";font-family:";" > </span></b></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style=";font-family:";" >The game works for everything. It helps if you imagine the “there are thou happy” coming from a sort of monkish figure. I find it indispensable for life here in Musho. I am happy—very happy with my pack of blessings light upon my back—yet sometimes need to remind myself. Thank you, fate, for bringing me here. Here am I happy.<br /></span></b></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HJCVBczMpXw/TaOvy0ZN7oI/AAAAAAAAAK4/xna9AtaCHI8/s1600/P1010172.JPG"><br /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6U7-G-hYb2M/TaOvyf5x8DI/AAAAAAAAAKo/qgSDqdxsmik/s1600/P1010029_2.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 194px; height: 400px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6U7-G-hYb2M/TaOvyf5x8DI/AAAAAAAAAKo/qgSDqdxsmik/s400/P1010029_2.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5594508444216455218" border="0" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CnjZSHFP5jE/TaOvyoJcJ9I/AAAAAAAAAKw/Vz89VZYoK1I/s1600/P1010058.JPG"><br /></a></p>Kaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05164416716810207983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2508059818244449434.post-37025855124423131652011-04-05T12:34:00.001-07:002011-04-05T12:37:43.805-07:00"Mom, I want you to have 11 boys-- for a soccer team-- and 1 girl-- to do the cooking"<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ByO6nGsxbMA/TZtvWRu-5xI/AAAAAAAAAKg/_8CYIDAPpCA/s1600/P1010085_2.JPG"><br /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AKV-eMZVn8k/TZtvWMMLxBI/AAAAAAAAAKY/csU9irxl1T4/s1600/P1010038.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AKV-eMZVn8k/TZtvWMMLxBI/AAAAAAAAAKY/csU9irxl1T4/s400/P1010038.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5592185789330736146" border="0" /></a><br /> <style>@font-face { font-family: "MS 明朝"; }@font-face { font-family: "Cambria Math"; }p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal { margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt; font-size: 12pt; font-family: "Times New Roman"; }.MsoChpDefault { font-size: 10pt; }div.WordSection1 { page: WordSection1; }</style> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">Yesterday afternoon, I left my house to visit my recently installed improved stoves. I think I´ve mentioned before, but I repeat, house visits are one of my favorite parts of my job. They are effective; to tell a young mother that she needs to keep animals out of her kitchen is one thing in the sterile health post, it is completely different to show her the dirt her dog, cat and guinea pig bring into the kitchen. Also, nowhere do I feel better about my work than in a house that has made serious changes. Some families have gone from blackened, smoky kitchens and open-air bathrooms to whitewashed kitchens with improved stoves, sinks and beautiful latrines in the backyard. I love it, and tell the families. There I am sometimes a motivator—“Don Justo, when are you going to finish that stove?” sometimes a friend, “Zenaida, your sink looks great but it would be even nicer if you used the rest of your cement to build a little table next to it,” sometimes an educator, “This, Doña Rafaela, is how you should use and clean your chimney so that it doesn´t smoke,” and sometimes a bit of an authority, “Señor Juan, if you don´t finish your sink by next Tuesday, we are going to take your materials.” I am not always comfortable in my different roles, but have learned to transition nicely. What keeps the task interesting and fun is that, while these are my professional roles, sometimes people thrust others upon me: listener, gossiper, best friend. </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">Returning from the visits yesterday, a woman not in my stoves projects, but with whom I´ve worked with in sinks and latrines, called me to her doorstep. She asked about a meeting, which was clearly a weak excuse for a long a chat about her son (“too lazy!! He won´t do anything in school. He just wants to be a farmer like his parents!!”), which somehow transitioned into a discussion of the differences between American and Peruvian parenting and, then, surprisingly, birth control. I should say this is a loaded topic in the sierra. First, due to the closed nature of sierra culture, there is shame about mentioning sex or birth control. Family planning programs are a recent phenomenon, at least in Musho, maybe a generation old, and many women still do not trust the various methods available free through the health post. According to local myths and beliefs, the injection can cause cancer, women to gain 20 or 30 kilos, and the pill causes splitting headaches, and, in many cases, madness that overtakes women and causes them to want to kill their husbands. As I spoke with my acquaintance, a woman of 35 and health promoter, she cited examples of these symptoms among friends and acquaintances, and was clearly curious as to my response. Among men there are other beliefs: that women who want to take birth control want to sleep around is the most common. She told me of a woman with 11 children whose husband told her to look for another husband if she wanted to take birth control.<br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ByO6nGsxbMA/TZtvWRu-5xI/AAAAAAAAAKg/_8CYIDAPpCA/s1600/P1010085_2.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 284px; height: 400px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ByO6nGsxbMA/TZtvWRu-5xI/AAAAAAAAAKg/_8CYIDAPpCA/s400/P1010085_2.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5592185790818871058" border="0" /></a></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">Two aspects of this discussion struck me as particularly unique: 1. That the woman I spoke with is a health promoter, elected as a leader in her community and trained by the health post in different topics. Despite this, she at best was doubtful about the health post´s assertions that birth control is harmless and, at worst, completely against the idea. 2. That she told me. Often women will mention to me doubts about birth control, but I never expected such a candid conversation, in the streets of all places. Her doubts and anecdotes worry me, but the fact that she told me I could only attribute to the magic of house visits. For months, I have visited people in the morning, the afternoon, the evening, asking about latrines, bathroom-going habits, hand washing, and life. Now, for better or worse, people feel comfortable airing their doubts about anything—from sinks to birth control. It´s an achievement of sorts, no matter how strange and sometimes uncomfortable. </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">And, to finish the story, how did we end our 45-minute discussion? She asked me if it were true that now they “castrate” men so they won´t have any more babies. At first I was baffled then completely amused when I realized she meant vasectomy but was confused by the terminology and procedure. I managed to explain to her the surgery without laughing but was undone when she got excited and claimed that she was telling her husband that very evening to go and get “castrated.” Citing the arriving rain, I left, only starting to laugh hysterically when I was out of site.<br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /><span style=""></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="">Also, after yesterday´s interest-piquing discussion, a 10 year boy said my title quote to his mother.<br /></span></p>Kaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05164416716810207983noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2508059818244449434.post-15096693084079211262011-02-27T14:57:00.000-08:002011-02-27T16:31:13.496-08:00Recent Adventures<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XAP6Th34yiM/TWrqnJNs5MI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/lsUY6FPmHMg/s1600/P1010087.JPG"><br /></a>OK, instead of boring you with thousands (ok, more like 100s maybe), I will hit you up with their more elegant equivalent:<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9GpKvjY6NDk/TWrqm82-0TI/AAAAAAAAAKI/cztbkQyHU9s/s1600/P1010077.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9GpKvjY6NDk/TWrqm82-0TI/AAAAAAAAAKI/cztbkQyHU9s/s400/P1010077.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5578529043344445746" border="0" /></a>a beautiful sunset from my house<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mzWHx4T90QQ/TWrqmcSUuAI/AAAAAAAAAKA/GkJm4rPWHMA/s1600/P1010016.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mzWHx4T90QQ/TWrqmcSUuAI/AAAAAAAAAKA/GkJm4rPWHMA/s400/P1010016.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5578529034600757250" border="0" /></a>Me as the "godmother" for my friend Lidia´s recently constructed bathroom<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vzBmzhE8zbg/TWrqmEAJ2nI/AAAAAAAAAJ4/I3fmnlkhyFM/s1600/P1010009.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vzBmzhE8zbg/TWrqmEAJ2nI/AAAAAAAAAJ4/I3fmnlkhyFM/s400/P1010009.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5578529028082096754" border="0" /></a>Mary posing with her birthday cake<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qU-BwodVfQ8/TWrql9eABGI/AAAAAAAAAJw/IhYbYe7hBno/s1600/P1010002.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qU-BwodVfQ8/TWrql9eABGI/AAAAAAAAAJw/IhYbYe7hBno/s400/P1010002.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5578529026328233058" border="0" /></a>One of my lazier English students, in the midst of class.<br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XAP6Th34yiM/TWrqnJNs5MI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/lsUY6FPmHMg/s1600/P1010087.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XAP6Th34yiM/TWrqnJNs5MI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/lsUY6FPmHMg/s400/P1010087.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5578529046660965570" border="0" /></a>Our carrot harvest; two men are washing the carrots by dancing on sacks of them in the creek and Yomer, Lidia´s son, is sampling the productKaithttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05164416716810207983noreply@blogger.com0